(CNN) — The coronavirus communicable has angry the United States’ accomplished dining mural into the Wild West. Abounding restaurants bankrupt their doors while others attending for accession agency to accumulate confined food.

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As Michelin-starred restaurants attack into the apple of takeout and delivery, accomplished dining looks a lot altered nowadays.
Many accept put their plating tweezers bottomward and confused atomic gastronomy techniques to the aback burner in favor of comforting, soul-nourishing meals.
Designing a new model
Called Ancestors Meal, Canlis’ takeaway four-course dinners serve two to four people.
Kevin Scott/Canlis
The aboriginal two account accepted to be accepted — too popular, in fact, causing cartage problems in the adjacency — so it accomplished operations on the burgers and bagels and refocused alone on meal kits.
Called Ancestors Meal, the four-course dinners, which can be ordered on catch arrangement Tock, serve two to four bodies and are priced anywhere from $46 to $95 a head.
Menus at Canlis in Seattle change circadian and affection dishes such as meatballs, aerial pot pie and a backtalk boil.
Courtesy Canlis
Menus change circadian and affection dishes such as meatballs, aerial pot pie and a backtalk boil.
“It doesn’t accomplish faculty for us to do our added meticulous, manicured, accomplished dining food,” says third bearing co-owner Mark Canlis.
“That’s not what Seattle needs appropriate now — and you can’t amalgamation that up and put it in a box anyway.”
However, he still stresses the aliment is accomplished dining, aloof reimagined. “We’re demography our dry-aged steaks and cutting them bottomward into meatball marinara sauce.
The ducks we acclimated to do tableside are now acclimated in a avoid cassoulet,” he explains.
When co-owner Nick Kokonas starting seeing anxiety at restaurants beyond the country collapse in the coronavirus wake, he knew activity was needed.
Citing Canlis as afflatus — “they do a lot of artistic things like we do,” says Kokonas — they able to “get rid of our restaurant as we acclimated to apperceive it, as a modernist cuisine temple, and amount out how to serve [hundreds of] commons a night as backpack out,” he says.

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(Hundreds is an understatement. Alinea produces 1,250 dinners per day, suggesting the appetence for high-quality takeout is aerial in Chicago.)
Each restaurant in The Alinea Accumulation now offers a distinct dish, which changes frequently. “One of the things that’s absolutely important is to do one affair absolutely well.”
Each restaurant in The Alinea Accumulation now offers a distinct basin such as coq a vin at Alinea.
Grant Achatz/The Alinea Accumulation
“Instead of alms a behemothic backpack out card of 80 items, it’s abundant bigger to appear up with article very, actual awesome, absolute and simple to execute.”
This scalable access translates into the $39.95-a-head coq a vin from Alinea, a $24.95-per-person lasagna from Roister or $65 mimosas and ready-to-bake pastries from The Aviary.
Kokonas is agog on takeout not alone because it keeps workers employed, but it potentially prevents aliment absence in the city. Between grocery aliment and restaurants, “you’ve advance out your aliment administration into many, abounding nodes. Added credibility of befalling agency beneath adventitious of failure,” he explains.
At two-Michelin-starred Acadia in Chicago’s South Loop, chef-owner Ryan McCaskey offers á la carte items adopted from the restaurant’s bar card and from his melancholia Maine restaurant, Acadia House Provisions.
Courtesy Acadia
Not all chefs feel the allegation to absolutely bandy out their playbook.
As he assets solid basement beneath him, he’s introducing composed dishes, such as the fan-favorite deconstructed lobster pot pie that appeared on Acadia’s aperture menu, into the takeaway repertoire.
A new affectionate of body food
It’s generally been said chefs baker from the heart, but aloof because the aliment is now in a basin or box doesn’t beggarly they can’t still acquaint their story.
“We capital to do article that we haven’t done afore because this is a new affair for everyone; we aloof allegation to access it like that,” he says.
Contra and accustomed wine bar Wildair in Manhattan, relaunched with a new archetypal that combines the activity and cuisine of both places, appropriate bottomward to the name of the single-serving bowl: Contrair.
Fabian von Hauske Valtierra/Contrair

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The bowls, such as a ambrosial lamb bouillon or backtalk congee, amalgamate Von Hauske’s Mexican and his co-owner Jeremiah Stone’s Chinese heritages. “It’s aliment we absolutely adore bistro and aliment that absolutely agency article to us,” Von Hauske explains.
A alternative of accustomed wines, additionally accessible for delivery, annular out the offerings.
Although Crenn has several restaurants to her name, she addendum that all are baby operations — the better has 38 seats — and she bare to focus her activity in one abode to accomplish her eyes of confined the greater good.
Crenn advised her Crenn Kits, which augment one to six bodies and are priced at $38 or $55 per person, about the healing backdrop of food.
As a blight survivor, Crenn believes diet is paramount; aliment should be “good for the body and acceptable for the allowed system,” she says, and the kits generally accommodate capacity able at her amoebic and biodynamic acreage in Sonoma, California.
Soup plays heavily in the menu, as do vegetables.
The affecting appulse of actuality well-fed with low-stress is additionally important to Crenn; she hopes the kits allay the accountability of yet accession assignment for parents who now antithesis alive from home with their children’s ancestry or the aged who may be house-bound.
Crenn additionally afresh launched Vitabowl, a new activity in which she’s a partner.
The vegetarian superfood bowls, as Crenn describes them, were fast-tracked for the Covid-19 pandemic. Priced $12 to $14 and awash at her restaurant and in assertive aliment markets in the San Francisco area, she sees them as accession way to accommodate aliment to the community.
Option to elevate
The $250-a-head, bristles advance kaiseki meal is a comfortable counterpoint to the affordable $18 sushi boxes he aboriginal appear (and still offers) back the restaurant closed.
The $250-a-head, bristles advance kaiseki meal is a comfortable counterpoint to the affordable $18 sushi boxes o.d.o. aboriginal appear (and still offers) back the restaurant closed.
Courtesy ODO
Odo capital to use added high-end ingredients, like what he uses in the restaurant, he explained through a translator, and action guests article added flush if they’re attractive for an animated acquaintance in their home.
Supporting the greater good
Through the new commitment and takeout model, restaurateurs acquisition they can abutment new endeavors that affect absolute change in society.

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Crenn partnered with Lexus (she’s a comestible adept for the company) to access up assembly of her Crenn Kits so she can accord commons to bloom affliction workers on the advanced lines.
In accession to Ancestors Meal, Canlis sells what they alarm CSA boxes, which accommodate capacity from their purveyors.
By aperture up a direct-to-consumer approach for its suppliers, Canlis is befitting its vendors afloat. Acadia hosts a farmers bazaar every Saturday area unemployed restaurant workers — one of the hardest-hit industries — can aces up donated articles and get aliment for the week, chargeless of charge.
Coveted table during Covid-19
Takeaway from these fine-dining spots is the hot new reservation: Alinea has a cat-and-mouse account of 1,000 orders.
Every. Single. Night.
And no wonder; bodies who commonly wouldn’t be able to patronize the restaurant get the befalling to acquaintance Michelin-starred cuisine at a atom of the price, while audience can abutment their admired establishments.
“We would accede it our admired restaurant and anticipate it’s absurd food,” she says.
“It absolutely is a high-end restaurant and it would be a appropriate break for our family.”
Given the circumstances, acclimation from Uchi was a way for Adams to “engage in some course and bless life.”
Kokonas sees his audience acrimonious up from Alinea one night, sister restaurant Next accession night, and says the oft-changing card entices echo business.
He calls the acquaintance “joyful” and says, “starting at about 6 p.m. every night, my Twitter augment is a agglomeration of bodies announcement pictures and saying, ‘Hey, how does my plating look?’ ” he laughs.
Date night
Mark Canlis’ admired moment appropriately far was on one of his commitment accouterment (yes, alike the bang-up works delivery.)
“I appearance up and there’s a assurance taped to the awning aperture and it says, ‘Welcome to Canlis,’ he recalls. “And it wasn’t for me, it was for [the customer’s] wife. [The customer] said, ‘It’s the one time I’ve taken my sweatpants off all week. I’m accepting dressed up for my wife.’
“That’s the response,” says Canlis. “That’s what’s activity on. It’s not aloof that you’re administration addition dinner, you’re reminding them of a time that seems like a continued time ago, and you’re giving them an alibi to aloof celebrate.”

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