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The aftermost time I larboard Hydra – was it absolutely alone two months ago? – I was accurate not to balloon to bandy some bill into the harbour from the ferry. It’s a superstition I best up from Didy Cameron, one of the real-life characters in my novel, A Theatre for Dreamers, who believed it would ensure her return. Except one day she didn’t accept a bread to duke and, as her granddaughter Alice told me, she never fabricated it aback to the island. The morning afterwards I threw my bill and we larboard Hydra, the Greek government bankrupt all the country’s schools. In the UK, however, my babe was abiding to academy afterwards abstraction leave. If I was still on the island, we’d be boring arising from lockdown into the sunshine of a spotless Greek island.

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On Hydra, the cockerels babble all through the night. The morning has abounding bells. Admitting the island is alone 10 afar continued and best of it is uninhabitable, there are added than 300 churches, best with bells, none of them beautifully rung. Afterwards a while you apprentice to beddy-bye through it.

As we alight via accomplish into Hydra port, the island’s alone town, the aroma of white flowers is about overpowering. Cato, the little artery cat who has adopted us, all-overs off the bank adverse the bazaar and follows us on through the square, area oranges are ripening on the copse about army busts of the island’s abundant painters.

I’ll be barefoot. In the rainier genitalia of the year these streets and staircases avalanche with baptize from the mountains, which makes the stones actual bland and too glace for sandals. Although its name ability betoken water, Hydra is dry but for a scattering of candied wells, and best of the houses still accept alive cisterns for accession rainwater, admitting it’s not capital for bubbler these days. Because I accept spent so abundant time absorbed in the island of 1960 – the year that the dramas of my atypical disentangle – it is consistently a abruptness to me that baptize runs out of curtains and there is mains electricity.

The abbey at the anchorage will blast its afflicted half-hours all through the day and the bodies will catnap in the sun amid the pigeons. There will be kittens at the marble cairn to Admiral Kountouriotis and his lion, with its decidedly animal aerial and the face of Bertrand Russell – whenever this ascertainment by biographer and Hydra citizen George Johnston floats into my arch it makes me chuckle.

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I aboriginal went to Hydra six years ago, aback it was artlessly a admirable Greek island and not a abode I went to collective with its ghosts. I don’t anticipate I was alike acquainted that it was the island Leonard Cohen had lived on, and knew annihilation of Charmian Clift, George Johnston and the bohemian association they fostered. It was May half-term and we capital a apathetic anniversary with accompany and accouchement – and affirmed sunshine.

Journalist Rosie Boycott recommended Hydra because, she said, the island is amidst by the clearest baptize you will anytime bathe in. There are no albino beaches; instead it’s a abode of pine-scented coves, balmy creviced rocks and, yes, bright baptize area jewel-coloured dust flash up at you alike aback you are able-bodied out of your depth. It has no airport and no high-rise barrio or big hotels; Richard Branson’s affairs for a resort were kicked into the asperous abounding years ago. Best of all, there are no cars on Hydra, or alike bicycles: the streets are too abrupt for auto and mainly fabricated up of attenuated alleys and accomplish cut beeline into the rock. Everything has to be agitated up from the anchorage on bottom or by donkey. There are some absolutely age-old souls active on the island, who acclaim their acceptable bloom to the 300 or 400 accomplish up to their doors.

After the accretion and coffee, it’s a five-minute ankle to the rocks at Spilia, the sun already accepting backbone and able-bodied bright of the mountains, the baptize smooth. Breaking the air-conditioned bark of the sea will be such a abatement afterwards months. I’ll bob on the after-effects and attending aback at the island, appear the anchorage – “nothing offends the eye” as Cohen already said of it – and a few fishing boats activity out; and beeline up at the ache copse so vividly blooming adjoin the dejected sky; and at the walls of the windmill dancing with sun bill and so atrociously affiliated with Sophia Loren as a poor island babe with not abundant accouterment in her aboriginal English-language film, Boy on a Dolphin, that she ability access from its aperture singing.

Stathis, in from the night boat, will acquaint us about his catch. He has some barbounia (red mullet) and will baker them for us at the taverna that the allotment of my academician that’s ashore in 1960 will alarm Graffos, but is absolutely Ostria. Breakfast will be the sweetest orange abstract (no ice, no straw) at the anchorage and that adorable apparent block the Katsikas ancestors has been confined with coffee for as continued as anyone can remember. A madeleine of Hydra.

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The painter Bill Pownall will be there and it will be acceptable to bolt up. He’s the alone one larboard who knew some of my people, not aloof Leonard and Marianne but Johnston and Clift too. He came in 1963 and spent his aboriginal Christmas with them. The turkey had affluence of breast, he says. “We alleged it Sophia.” Like the cake, he is a band amid me and my Hydra ghosts.

I dream of arrival, the moment the Flying Dolphin turns larboard into Hydra port. It takes about an hour and a bisected from Piraeus, aloof south of Athens. The aboriginal afterimage of the island from the bear is of its long, bald amateur of unpromising, blah and barren-looking rock. And again the about-face and the abundant reveal, the acceptable flush, that bright bow-shaped of harbour and, fanning up the hill, absurd not to call in agreement of an amphitheatre, salt-white houses that acceleration like tiered basement to the gods adjoin a accomplishments of abandoned hills and mountains. It’s a abracadabra trick, a curl every time.

If I could go tomorrow, I apperceive aloof how it would be. The pink-veined marble of the flagstones at the anchorage and the donkeys cat-and-mouse in the shade, the awnings and flags and banderole and strings of mules accommodating with doubtful endless – a abrasion machine, for example.

I sigh. My babe looks up and asks, “What’s up?” And I acquaint her I’m apperception what it would be like to access on Hydra appropriate now.

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“I apperceive absolutely what you would do, what you’d say. You do the aforementioned every time. You stop and booty a abysmal detect of the air and say, ‘This is what heaven smells like.’”

It has been aberrant to broadcast a atypical at a time aback it’s absurd to accommodated a distinct reader, but it has been admirable audition from the cardinal who let me apperceive that the acquaintance of account it is the abutting they’ll get to a anniversary this year. I accept admired actuality absent on Hydra, and continued for its ghosts of 1960.

Polly Samson’s latest book is A Theatre for Dreamers (Bloomsbury). To buy a archetype for £12.59 appointment The Guardian Bookshop

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