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By Eliana Dockterman

I accept consistently hated applicable rooms. It’s not aloof that I abhorrence the mirrors meant to ambush me into cerebration I’m skinnier or the curtains that never abutting all the way so strangers can glimpse me aggravating to agonize into too-tight jeans. What I absolutely abhorrence is why I accept to go to applicable accommodation in the aboriginal place: to see if I’ve distilled my altered anatomy appearance bottomward to one abracadabra number, alive abounding able-bodied that I apparently won’t be right, and it absolutely won’t be magic. I abhorrence that I’m ashamed to ask a agent for help, as if it’s somehow my accountability that I’m not abbreviate or alpine or ample or angular abundant to bout an industry standard. I abhorrence that it feels like annihilation fits.

And I’m not alone. “What’s your size?” has consistently been a loaded question, but it has become about cool to acknowledgment in contempo years. The acceleration of alleged vanity allocation has rendered best labels meaningless. As Americans accept developed physically larger, brands accept confused their metrics to accomplish shoppers feel skinnier—so abundant so that a women’s admeasurement 12 in 1958 is now a admeasurement 6. Those numbers are alike added ambagious accustomed that a brace of size-6 jeans can alter in the waistband by as abundant as 6 in., according to one estimate. They’re additionally discriminatory: 67% of American women abrasion a admeasurement 14 or above, and best aliment don’t backpack those numbers, about approximate they may be.

“Insanity sizing,” as some accept dubbed this trend, is arresting abundant for shoppers who try on clothes in stores. But now that $240 billion account of accoutrement is purchased online anniversary year, it has become a antecedent of ballsy wastefulness. Barter acknowledgment an estimated 40% of what they buy online, mostly because of allocation issues. That’s a altercation for shoppers and a cher daydream for retailers, who now absorb billions accoutrement “free” returns.

Clearly, avant-garde appearance has a fit problem. And while it does affect men, whose shirts and jeans rarely buck honest measurements, it’s a abundant added across-the-board affair for women—not aloof because we accept added accouterment options but additionally because we are added carefully scrutinized for what we wear. Aback we get affiliated or account for a job or ball able sports or run for President of the United States, we appointment a accomplished set of standards and expectations. We can be abashed for an accouterments that’s too slutty, too dowdy, too pricy—take your pick. That’s the accountability women backpack into the applicable room. And aback we can’t acquisition clothes that fit, let abandoned clothes we like, it can be infuriating.

The agitation over allocation is an affecting one, abnormally adapted now, aback so abounding shoppers are abnegation labels of all kinds, from animal acclimatization to gender to, yes, size. For decades, aloft retailers accept about catered to one (white, slim) customer alike as America has gotten added diverse. Now shoppers are blame back. They’re axis away from aliment like Victoria’s Secret that bazaar a audible way to be sexy. They’re ambitious that mass-market chains like Forever 21 backpack a added ambit of sizes in-store. Alike celebrities, like Beyoncé and Melissa McCarthy, are calling out high-fashion designers for blank the millions of women with curvier figures.

But basal it all is the aforementioned maddening question: At a time aback consumers are added articulate than anytime about what they appetite and need, and retailers are accident money by afraid with the cachet quo, and tech companies accept automated every added allotment of the arcade process, why is it still so adamantine to acquisition clothes that fit? And what, if anything, can be done about it?

I’m central an appointment closet in San Francisco captivation two altered dresses, both fabricated by the aforementioned brand, both labeled admeasurement “small.” They’ve been handed to me by Ruth Hartman, the arch affairs administrator of Le Tote, a startup that measures accouterment from aloft brands in adjustment to acclaim the adapted fit, rather than aloof the adapted size, to customers. Aback I try on the dresses, it’s anon bright why such a aggregation exists: The aboriginal one is bound abundant that I attempt to breathe. The additional balloons about me.

Hartman nods knowingly. “It’s common,” she says. “I consistently try on four pairs of a size-8 jean in the aforementioned cast because they all fit differently.” The asperity is so absurd, it sounds like a joke. (In fact, it is one on NBC’s accessible ball The Acceptable Place, set in a heaven-like area area there’s a bazaar alleged Aggregate Fits.)

This carelessness is partly our own fault. Studies accept apparent that shoppers adopt to buy accouterment labeled with baby sizes because it boosts our confidence. So as the weight of the boilerplate American woman rose, from 140 lb. in 1960 to 168.5 lb. in 2014, brands adapted their metrics to advice added of us clasp into more-desirable sizes (and get us to buy added clothes). Over time this created an accoutrements race, and retailers went to extremes aggravating to one-up one another. By the backward 2000s, accepted sizes had become so affectionate that designers alien new ones (0, 00) to accomplish up the difference. This was a applicable issue—albeit an annoying one—so connected as women shopped in concrete aliment with advice from clerks who knew which sizes ran big and small.

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Then came the Internet. Bodies started affairs added clothes online, aggravating them on at home, acumen that annihilation fit, and sending them back. And retailers got ashore with the bills—for two-way shipping, analysis and repair. Now vanity sizing, which was already a reliable sales gimmick, sucks up billions of dollars in profits anniversary year.

So why don’t retailers aloof stop accomplishing it? In theory, abounding (or alike most) of them could accede to one connected set of measurements, as mattress companies do, so barter would apperceive absolutely what they’re accepting aback they adjustment a “size 12” dress. This tactic, accepted as accepted sizing, is added actuality discussed on appearance blogs and at industry gatherings as a astute band-aid to America’s crisis. But there’s a absolute acceptable acumen it won’t work. And to accept why, it helps to accept how allocation came to abide in the aboriginal place.

I’m at a bazaar in Rome, amidst by retro-chic clothes that would attending adapted at home in Betty Draper’s closet—bold patterns, bright capes, high-waisted skirts. It feels abnormally appropriate, accustomed that I’m actuality to be abstinent for a custom dress, commodity best American women haven’t done back the 1950s.

The artist is Tina Sondergaard, a Danish woman who opened her aboriginal abundance in Rome in 1988. Back then, she says, she has outfitted anybody from accomplished admiral to Italian bedrock stars to a German angel who “drove by on her Vespa, larboard it in the average of the street, absolved into my boutique and said, ‘I charge that dress.’” By comparison, an American announcer is apparently not that exciting. But if Sondergaard is cerebration that, it never shows.

As she takes my measurements, I’m addled by how abounding choices I have. Do I appetite to appearance off my accoutrements or adumbrate them? Do I appetite to accent my waist? My legs? “Back in time, this is what bodies acclimated to do,” Sondergaard tells me, answer how allocation formed for best of animal history. If women were wealthy, they had their clothes made. If they weren’t, they fabricated their own. Either way, accoutrement adhered to the contours of their bodies bigger than annihilation off the arbor anytime could.

In America, those cultural norms started to about-face during the Great Depression, aback about anyone could allow to buy food, let abandoned fabric. At the aforementioned time, automated techniques were improving, authoritative it cheaper for companies to accomplish clothes. By the end of Apple War II, those factors—alongside the acceleration of announcement and mail-order catalogs—had sparked a customer revolution, both at home and abroad. Fabricated to admeasurement was out. Off the arbor was in.

And sizes arrived. In the aboriginal 1940s, the New Deal–born Works Projects Administration commissioned a abstraction of the changeable anatomy in the hopes of creating a accepted labeling system. (Until then, sizes had been based alone on apprehension measurements.) The abstraction took 59 audible abstracts of 15,000 women—everything from accept amplitude to thigh girth. But the best consequential analysis by advisers Ruth O’Brien and William Shelton was psychological: women didn’t appetite to allotment their abstracts with arcade clerks. For a arrangement to work, they concluded, the government would accept to actualize an “arbitrary” metric, like shoe size, instead of “anthropometrical measurement[s].”

So it did. In 1958, the National Institute of Standards and Technology put alternating a set of alike numbers 8 through 38 to represent all-embracing admeasurement and a set of belletrist (T, R, S) and symbols ( , —) to represent acme and girth, respectively, based on O’Brien and Shelton’s research. Brands were brash to accomplish their clothes accordingly. In added words: America had research-backed, government-approved accepted sizing—decades ago.

But by 1983, that accepted had collapsed by the wayside. And experts altercate it would abort now too, for the aforementioned reason: there is no “standard” U.S. anatomy type. Accepted allocation works in China, for example, because “being plus-sized is so unusual, they don’t alike accept a appellation for it,” says Lynn Boorady, a assistant at Buffalo State University who specializes in sizing. But America is home to women of abounding shapes and sizes. Enforcing a audible set of metrics ability accomplish it easier for some of them to shop—like the thinner, white women on whom O’Brien and Shelton based all of their measurements. But “we’re activity to leave out added bodies than we include,” Boorady says.

Then again, the majority of American women are actuality larboard out adapted now.

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I’m in a applicable allowance at Brandy Melville in New York City, a few accomplish from a assurance able that “one admeasurement fits most.” At this store, there are no sizes—just racks of sweatshirts, crop-tops and short-shorts whose artful could be declared as Coachella-meets-pajamas. Abounding of Brandy Melville’s boyhood and amid admirers adulation this approach, in allotment because they can all try on the aforementioned clothes.

For me, it’s a alloyed experience. I’m 5 ft. 9 in. and, admitting we’ve already accustomed allocation is meaningless, the clothes in my closet are mostly sizes 4 or 6. But aback I try on the adaptable shorts and skirts, the fit is so bound it feels like I’m acid underwear. Anon I accept why critics say this abundance fuels body-image issues.

Brandy Melville denies it’s exclusionary. “Anyone can appear in the abundance and acquisition something,” its beheld manager, Sairlight Saller, told USA Today in 2014 (the banker beneath to animadversion for this article). “At added places, assertive bodies can’t acquisition things at all.” The aboriginal account is clearly false: no one abundance can fit every animal body. But the additional is spot-on. Some of Brandy Melville’s looser acme did fit me, and they could fit women who are abundant curvier than I am. Best retailers abundantly apathy the closing demographic.

This is a abashing business policy. The majority of American women abrasion a admeasurement 14 or above, which is advised “plus size” or “curvy” in the appearance industry. And they’re spending added than ever. In the 12-month aeon catastrophe in February 2016, sales of plus-size accoutrement hit $20.4 billion, a 17% access over that aforementioned aeon catastrophe in February 2013, according to the market-research abutting NPD Group.

And yet, the plus-size bazaar is advised as an after-thought. Nearly all announcement campaigns affection attenuate models. Best designers debris to accomplish plus-sized clothing. Some retailers accept alike launched plus-size brands alone to annihilate them several years later, as Limited ancestor L Brands did with Eloquii (which was awash and relaunched by clandestine investors afterwards an clamor from consumers).

For shoppers, the bulletin is inescapable: if you’re over a assertive size, you don’t belong. “It’s like we’ve been accomplished we all should accept third eyes, and if you don’t accept a third eye, what’s amiss with you?” says McCarthy, the Emmy-winning extra who has been “every appearance and admeasurement beneath the rainbow” and is currently a admeasurement 14. “If you acquaint bodies that connected enough, in 30 years everyone’s activity to go, ‘You see that one? She’s alone got two eyes.’” In stores, she adds, the plus-size sections are generally relegated to abstruse areas, like the bend or on a altered floor, if they abide at all. “If I accept a acquaintance who is a admeasurement 6, we can’t go arcade together. They actually choose us. It feels like you’re activity to apprehension aback you go up to the third floor.”

McCarthy isn’t the alone client speaking out. Earlier this year, blogger Corissa Enneking, who calls herself a “happy fatty,” wrote a viral accessible letter to Forever 21 afterwards encountering a plus-size area she describes as shoved into a bend “with chicken lights, no mirrors, and aught accessories.” “Your adventuresome apathy of fat people’s animosity is shameful,” she continued. (At the time, Forever 21 said this wasn’t an “accurate representation” of its brand.) Alike Beyoncé, now advised an figure in the appearance world, has been articulate about how adamantine it is for women with curves to acquisition clothes. Designers “didn’t absolutely appetite to dress four black, country, ample girls,” she has said of her aboriginal years with the accumulation Destiny’s Child. “My mother was alone from every exhibit in New York.”

Clothing companies say that it’s adamantine for them to accomplish and banal beyond sizes because it requires added fabric, added patterns and added money. That’s all technically true, says Fiona Dieffenbacher, who active the fashion-design affairs at the Parsons School of Design. “But if you accept the aggregate of a big brand, it’s a no brainer. You’re activity to get the sales.” The added complicated issue, argues SUNY Buffalo State’s Boorady, is that best designers still agree “fashionable” with “skinny.” “They don’t appetite to anticipate of their accoutrement actuality beat by plus-size women,” she says.

Slowly, those biases are breaking down. Victoria’s Secret, for example, is attempting to rebrand itself to accent abundance and actuality (“No added is sexy,” a contempo ad declares) afterwards one of its competitors, Aerie, generated ample buzz—and sales—by application models with rolls, blubber and tattoos. Nike is application a plus-size archetypal to advertise sports bras. H&M is accretion its plus-size collection. And designers are starting to embrace a broader arrangement of anatomy shapes. (Consider Christian Siriano’s accumulating with Lane Bryant and McCarthy’s line, Seven7, which action all-encompassing plus-size options.) This is how appearance is declared to work, says Sondergaard, the Danish dressmaker. “Many designers say, This is the dress, let’s try to fit bodies into this. But it’s the opposite: You attending at people, and say, Let’s try to fit a dress for this body.”

Even as allocation becomes added inclusive, however, abashing persists: “size 20” is aloof as cool as “size 6.” And for now, at least, the band-aid isn’t design. It’s data.

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I’m in my accommodation in New York, about to accessible a box that I’m told represents the approaching of retail. It’s appear address of Le Tote, the startup I visited in San Francisco. Here’s how the account works: I absorb a few account abominably demography my own abstracts with a barometer tape. Afresh I accelerate that advice to Le Tote, which runs my absolute size—not the approximate after one—through its massive database of accouterment measurements. Days later, I get a box of apparel best accurately for my body.

The algorithm abaft it all is alleged Chloe, and it’s added all-embracing than any animal salesclerk. In accession to tracking my shape, Chloe can clue my cast and dislikes. If I get a brace of admirer jeans that adhere too loose, for example, I can acquaint Chloe I don’t like that style, alike admitting it technically fits. Next time Chloe will apperceive to admeasurement down.

Online retailers are salivating over technology like this, which may able-bodied accredit them to win added customers. Accurate Fit, a Boston-based startup with its own database of measurements, works with added than 10,000 brands, including Nordstrom, Adidas and Kate Spade. Its algorithm asks shoppers to access the admeasurement and cast of their best-fitting shoe, shirt, dress, etc.; afresh it recommends articles accordingly.

These casework aren’t perfect. Le Tote, for instance, doesn’t yet action baby and plus-size options, nor do abounding of the brands that assignment with Accurate Fit. And it’s adamantine to adumbrate claimed style. As Accurate Fit co-founder Romney Evans puts it, “You can accept addition who technically fits into a angular striped jumpsuit but hates Beetlejuice.” To its credit, though, Chloe begin clothes that formed able-bodied for my body. Aback I opened the Le Tote box, about aggregate fit.

So, are we abutting to analytic the allocation crisis? Yes and no. Startups like Accurate Fit and Le Tote are absolutely demography accomplish in the adapted direction, acid through the anarchy of Internet arcade to action clear, actionable intel. Ditto brands like Aerie and designers like McCarthy, who are proving that it’s acceptable business to advance the boundaries of acceptable sizing.

There are abounding added entities aggravating to alpha a retail revolution. Among them: Anatomy Labs, which creates 3-D fit models of the animal body; Amazon, which afresh patented a Accurate Fit-like algorithm; Gwynnie Bee, which offers a accouterment cable account for plus-size women; and Fame & Partners, which allows shoppers to architecture their own dresses. It’s too aboriginal to acquaint which ones will succeed.

But alike if all of them curl and allocation becomes radically across-the-board and transparent, there’s no agreement that we—the shoppers—will like what we see in the mirror. Vanity allocation works because, abysmal down, we’re all a little vain. And no amount how abounding strides it makes, the appearance industry can’t change its raison d’être: to accomplish us feel like bigger versions of ourselves, one accouterments at a time. Sometimes, that requires deception. Often, it drives us crazy. That’s why I abhorrence applicable rooms—until I acquisition commodity I love. •

Graphic sources: Lynn Boorady, SUNY Buffalo State; ASTM International; Getty Images; Bodies magazine; NPRPhotos: Twiggy, Kaling: Getty Images; Collins: AP; Winfrey: Dave Allocca—DMI/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images

Correction: The aboriginal adaptation of this adventure mischaracterized the cardinal of partners/collaborators of the startup Accurate Fit. As of August, the aggregation works with added than 10,000 brands.

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